Each Culinary Artist Should Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.